My 4 Photo Criteria

Photography is about individuality and photographers often take different routes to end up at the same place. In many aspects of photography, there isn't a right or wrong, but just personal preference. I'm going to share the four aspects of my photos that I take into consideration when determining whether or not to keep and/or use them. You may have similar requirements or yours may be completely different. For the most part, I look at these factors in the order I'm listing them here. Sometimes the order changes, but I naturally look at my photos this way. I didn't sit down one day and come up with these criteria in this order, it's just the way my mind evaluates pictures.

Once the new shots have been downloaded to my computer, my first task is to weed out any junk, garbage, and crapola. If a shot is too far gone in one of these four areas, I almost always delete it. Even if I don't delete it, it's probably never going to be seen by anyone else. So here they are...

Focus
This is the one factor that never changes order. I always consider the focus first. Every time. If the focus is off, nine times out of ten I delete it unless I have a specific reason for saving it. I don't care how good the other aspects of the photo are, I won't be happy if the focus is bad. I don't know how many times I've come home excited about my outing only to discover several shots that were blurry or had soft focus. And the LCD screen on the back of your camera will lie right to your face! Out of focus shots will often look okay on the LCD screen, but you see their true nature when you open them on a computer. The best way to check focus on your camera is to enlarge the photo so you can see detail on the LCD screen.

When I talk about focus, that doesn't necessarily mean everything throughout the entire photo has to be in focus. You as the photographer determine what it is you're focusing on. But if the subject of my photo, no matter how large or small, isn't focused properly, then I don't use the shot. In the past, I have shown photos here and there that I knew weren't in perfect focus, but I've become much stricter on myself. If the focus is sharp, I can sometimes let some of the other three factors slide, but even if the other three criteria are perfect, they won't make up for a blurry shot.

Composition
I'm tough on myself about composition. I could even be borderline OCD about it. When I'm critiquing my photos, composition ranks above exposure. After focus, composition can make or break a shot. I love the rule of thirds! This is probably the "rule" I follow most strictly. Not that it can't or shouldn't be broken. I've done that, too. Photography rules can be broken with great results when done properly. For the most part, though, the rule of thirds will give you a nice composition. Our eyes naturally look for smooth, flowing, pleasing compositions. Have you ever seen a photo that just looked awkward or "off"? Did you think to yourself, if the photo had just been framed this way or the subject was over here a bit more it would look better? I see photos all the time when I'm browsing 500px or Flickr that are outstanding in every way, but the composition is wrong for me. That doesn't mean it's wrong for everyone, but I'll look at a photo like that and it's just not pleasing to my eyes.

If I didn't frame a shot the way I intended or I missed part of my subject because it was moving (birds, animals), I generally won't keep the photo. If the subject is leaving the frame rather than entering the frame, I usually won't keep the shot. If a photo just doesn't look balanced to me, I am probably not going to use it. It's difficult to describe what I'm looking for because each of us may see things a bit differently. You know what looks pleasing to you and what doesn't. Composition can either draw us in to a photo or make us want to move on to the next one.

Exposure
There was a time when exposure would have been my number two criteria, but the digital age has changed that. For me to delete a photo due to exposure, it has to be really off. If it's that bad, it means I really screwed up when taking the shot. My photos aren't always perfectly exposed, but they're usually close enough that I can make the necessary corrections during processing. Since I shoot in RAW, I have to process my photos in order to get a final product so adjusting the exposure isn't a big deal. If I do get a photo that has been exposed incorrectly, it's usually too far underexposed. When you have a badly underexposed photo and you attempt to correct it in processing, it will add digital noise to the shot. Depending on the ISO setting, the additional noise can be very noticeable. Proper exposure is hardest when you have a scene with both really light and really dark areas. If my main subject is just too improperly exposed either way, I'm not going to use the shot. 

Background
When I consider the background, I don't mean just the area behind the subject. It could be anywhere in the scene. Part of this goes back to composition, but if I find something in the shot that is distracting, there's a good chance I won't use the photo unless I can crop it out. I've downloaded photos and found litter in a shot that I didn't notice at the time I took it. Sometimes the subject blends in too much with the background or the background is very busy and distracts from the subject. I always try to take these things into account when I'm framing the shot, but sometimes I miss something or it's physically impossible to leave something out. Power lines, light poles, buildings, signs, vehicles, roads, trash, and people are all things that can be annoyances in a scene. If I can't frame something out of the photo, sometimes I'll take the shot, anyway, and then make a determination later whether or not to keep it.

Below is an example of some of the things I'm talking about. There's almost nothing right with this photo. The focus is off. The feet are in focus, but not the head. Exposure on the heron is a bit dark, but I could correct that. The heron is flying out of the frame rather than into it which drives me crazy. And who could miss the tree in the foreground? I was panning along taking several shots as the heron flew by so this wasn't the only photo, but it's a good, albeit obvious, example of what I look for. For me to like this photo, the whole heron would have to be in focus, I should be leading it enough so it's entering the frame, and there would be nothing else in the shot.

So those are the four criteria I use when deciding which photos I keep and which ones get sent to the digital graveyard. Focus is always number one and if that's acceptable, I then look at the others. If you've managed to read this far, keep in mind I'm rather tough on myself. This is how I judge my own photos. Ideally, I try to get photos that have good focus, nice composition, correct exposure, and no distracting background elements. Unfortunately, it doesn't always come together that way. But that's what's nice about the digital format - hit delete and try again. Mistakes are free and when I make them, I delete them and move on.

Since I mentioned 500px and Flickr, I would urge you to take a look at the photos posted on both sites. 500px is my favorite. Check the Animals, Nature, and Landscape categories. Some of the photos are just incredible! Browsing these sites makes me realize just how inadequate my skills are, but they also give me motivation to keep trying.

Things I've Learned, But Already Knew

I've learned a few things during the course of my photographic endeavors, most of which I already knew. I'd heard them or read about them, but some didn't really hit home until I'd experienced them myself. Nothing here is new. There are no startling revelations, just some insights I've come to accept as fact.


1. Pretty Much Everything Is More Important Than Equipment

Don't misunderstand me, quality equipment (notice I didn't say the most "expensive" equipment) will produce higher quality images than junk equipment. But having the best of everything money can buy is not the most important part of photography. Too many people buy expensive gear and are disappointed when their photos don't turn out the way they expected.

Lighting, composition, subject elements, and creativity are more important to a photo than equipment. Even knowledge of the equipment is more important than the equipment itself. All the things that make up a great photo rank higher on the VIP list than equipment. Don't let the fact you don't own top of the line gear distract you from making fantastic photos. While quality equipment is certainly beneficial, the gear itself is too often overrated, particularly camera bodies. I've learned that the elements of a good photo are the most important part of my arsenal.


2. Looking Is NOT The Same As Seeing

I've gradually learned that looking for things to photograph is not the same as seeing what's around me. We all look for subjects, but we don't always see subjects. Seeing is having vision. I don't mean you wake up one morning with a grand vision imparted by a photo fairy while you were asleep. Seeing is having the eye for spotting photographic possibilities others would miss. Vision is seeing beyond the ordinary as well as making the ordinary interesting. Some call it having a "creative eye". I've learned it's not enough just to look, but to really see. It's the difference between a plain photo and a great photo.


3. If You Snooze, You WILL Lose - Eventually

This has happened to me more times than I care to admit. I've been waiting for a long period of time for something I know is going to happen, I get distracted briefly, and then realize the thing I was waiting for happened while I wasn't paying attention. This is especially true when photographing wildlife. It's Murphy's Law at work. I've learned to stay focused (no pun intended) if there's a shot I really want to get. Photographing herons as they hunt has been a huge lesson in patience and focus.


4. Getting Physically Close Is Better Than Optically Close

Generally speaking, getting physically close to your subject is better than relying on a long lens to get close. I'm not knocking long lenses at all. Too many people, however, invest in a big lens with the idea it will cure all of their long distance ills. I use my big glass a lot, but along the way I've learned that I get better results with it by getting as physically close as possible. I think having a long lens also creates laziness. Why bother moving my feet when I can just use a big lens? This actually applies to lenses of all focal lengths. Get physically close first, then use the appropriate lens. And "close" is relative to the subject you're shooting and the situation.

5. Close Is Not Always Better

In case you think I'm contradicting myself, this is not the same thing as the point above. What I'm talking about here is the idea that the frame has to be filled with a single subject in order for the photo to be good. Often that is indeed the case, but there is also too much emphasis placed on getting that "eyeball" shot of an animal or bird. For a long time, I thought the best photos were those where the subject was up close and personal. And those do make very interesting shots. However, I've learned to see beyond just the close up and include other elements. I now try to show an animal's habitat and other things that are a part of the whole scene. I'll take close ups if I want them, but then I also look at the bigger picture and try to include those things that make up an animal's habitat. Showing a critter in its element can be just as interesting, if not more so, than zooming in for that frame-filling head shot.


6. Preparation Prevents Disappointment

Like the rest of life, preparation in photography can prevent the majority of problems. For example, there's no such thing as having too many memory cards. With you. That's a fact. I carry four 32GB cards with me at a minimum. Running out of memory is probably the biggest issue I hear people talk about. Having a fully charged battery is another example. And speaking of batteries, if you own a DSLR and don't have a spare battery, that should be the very next photography item you purchase. Having a second battery (with you) can be a photo saver. 

I often spend several hours at a time in the field. Sometimes I'm close to my vehicle and sometimes I'm not. I always take something to snack on and something to drink even if I don't plan on being gone a long time. I check the weather and take the appropriate foul weather gear if necessary. Taking a few minutes to double check you have everything (cards, batteries, lenses, tripod, monopod, cleaning kit, etc.) can save hassles later.


7. Don't Be Afraid To Delete

I've learned to delete photos I know I'll never use. This goes beyond the bad shots. Those get deleted without question. I try to keep only those photos I know or think I may use. If I look at a shot and don't like it, even if it's technically correct, I delete it. I've heard both sides of the issue. Some people say you should never delete anything other than the obviously bad shots, while others say you should delete anything that's not perfect. I take a middle road. I'm not a photo hoarder, but I don't delete just for the sake of deleting. I often take duplicate photos in the field and I'll look at them later and keep a few and delete the rest. I've also learned that if I go back a few months later and look at older shots again, I will often find more I don't like. My goal is to keep the photos that could be useful and delete the excess.


8. Get It Right In Camera

Getting the shot correct in camera is better than trying to "correct" it later in post-processing. I've always tried to do this, it's not really something I had to learn the hard way. Digital cameras and editing software have created some lazy photographers. I've heard people say they just shoot and worry about fixing things later in Photoshop. That's a bit like painting a room without taping things off or using drop cloths and then going back after the fact and trying to remove the paint from things you didn't want it on. I started in the days of film long before digital came along. I had to get it right in the camera or the photos would be useless. You might get a photo lab to make some corrections, but for the most part, what you shot was what you got. Getting it right in camera (as close a possible) is the best policy. On a side note, the photo of the heron I included in this post was shot at ISO 1000. Using the lowest ISO possible is usually the way to go, but don't be afraid to use a high ISO if it means getting the shot you want.


Photography is a learning process and I've certainly had a lot to learn. I'll never know it all and even knowing it all doesn't guarantee great photographs. I try not to make the same mistakes over and over and I try to learn everything I can from other photographers. I'm sure there will be a time when I'll have a whole new list of things I've learned that I already knew, but had to do some of it the hard way.

How To Focus Through Fences

I was asked recently if I could write a tutorial on how to focus through chain link and other wire type fences. In other words, how do you get the camera to focus on the subject on the other side of a fence rather than the fence itself. The example given was like at a zoo where you want to photograph an animal, but the camera keeps focusing on the fence. Much of this will apply to DSLR's and, as always, it will depend on your camera and its capabilities. Some of the tips will work with point and shoots, but not all of them. Other factors will come into play like your distance from the fence, the subject's distance from the fence, etc.


Manual Focus
The best way to gain control over your camera's focus is to use manual focusing. Many people who own a DSLR have never focused manually. Because cameras are capable of being used in full auto mode, we often don't think to take control away from the camera. Many lenses have a switch on them that allow you to choose auto focus or manual. You may need to refer to your owner's manual to find out how to set this for your equipment. Focusing manually is not as daunting as it may seem. Granted, if you've never done it, there is a bit of a learning curve, but it's not that bad. By focusing manually, you can avoid the fence problem and focus directly on the subject on the other side. This is easier when the subject is still, but can be done on moving animals. At zoos, many animals will pace or wander the same path over and over. If you're having trouble manually focusing on a moving animal, the way around that is to pre-focus on a point where you know the animal will walk and take the shot when it comes into that spot. Manually focusing on motionless animals is easy and is the best way to overcome the tendency for the camera to focus on the fence.


Focus Points
DSLR cameras have a certain number of focus points which are usually indicated by squares on the focus screen when you look through the viewfinder. The number of focus points varies from brand to brand and model to model. As far as I know, all DSLR's allow you to choose either all focus points or a single focus point. How that is achieved also depends on the particular camera. That's where you need to refer to your owner's manual.


If manual focusing is not something you feel you can do, you can set your auto focus point to the single center point and turn off the others. You can then aim the center point through a hole in the fence and onto the subject. Your distance from the fence is important for this. The closer you are, the easier it is to do. If you are too far from the fence, the opening may be too small for this to work. This is a common problem at zoos where there is a fence around the animals and other barriers beyond that to keep people back.


Having all of the focus points activated is good for general photography, but I rarely use my camera that way. The majority of the time, I use just the center point. I have my camera set up so I can change the focus point just by using the thumb pad on the back of the camera. This allows me to change the point even during shooting to adjust as the situation dictates. When all of the focus points are active, the camera will inevitably lock on the fence rather than the animal. Knowing how to set a single point will allow you to work around that.


Manual focus and setting a single focus point are the two options for keeping the camera from locking on a fence. Because it's so closely related to what I'm talking about, I also want to include some tips on how to reduce the presence of fences in photos.


Get Close
This assumes you can get right up next to the fence. By putting your lens against an opening in the fence, it will reduce and sometimes eliminate the fence from the shot. Your lens also plays a part in this. A longer or telephoto lens won't show as much fence as a wide angle lens will. Even with a long lens, there may still be some "shadowing" in the photo. You may find, though, that you can get an acceptable shot just by sticking your camera right up to an opening.


Large Aperture
Using a large aperture (small f number) will create a shallow depth of field and blur out the fence. This works best when there is some distance between the fence and the subject you're shooting. If the animal is close to the fence, the fence will be more prominent, too. The best way to set a specific f stop is to shoot in Aperture Priority (AV) mode or in manual. Leaving your camera on the "green square" or full auto will make this difficult since the camera will choose an aperture based on what it thinks is needed for the correct exposure.


Make The Fence Part Of The Shot
If all else fails, you can try incorporating the fence into your shot. If an animal is up against the fence, you could get a tight shot of an eye looking through an opening. If it's an animal hanging onto the fence, you could again get a tight shot and use that in the photo. This is where creativity and composition come into play. These kinds of fences usually aren't appealing for photographs, but with some imagination, you can compose an interesting shot.


Conclusion
Chain link and other wire fences are difficult to work around and zoos, in particular, are designed for our safety and that of the animals, not so much for photography. Obviously, it would be nice to avoid the fence altogether, but the point of this tutorial is to provide some tips when avoiding fences isn't possible. I am not an expert on the subject and I'm flattered I was asked to discuss it. These are things I've learned and have done myself. Sometimes the end result is what I wanted and sometimes not. Most of this you probably already know, but if there's anything here that helps, then I've accomplished what I wanted to do.


If you have a tip that has worked for you or there's something I haven't covered, feel free to share it in the comments. I certainly don't know everything and learning from others is part of the process of becoming a better photographer.

Shoot Your Passion

Photography can be very simple, yet complex at the same time. It can be interpreted in so many ways. For some people it's a "hobby", for others it's how they make a living. And then there are the folks who fall somewhere in between. No matter where you fall on the scale, having a passion for what you do has to be a part of it. More on that in a bit. I don't really have an outline of what I want to say other than to share some thoughts and things I've learned. This is not a technical how-to post and, as people who know me can attest, I don't think of my own photos as all that good. I'm always learning and have much to learn. I just had a few thoughts bouncing around in my head and I wanted to share them with anyone who cares to use up two minutes of their time.

I'll start by saying you should know your equipment, but don't get hung up on equipment. What do I mean by that? It doesn't matter what you use to take your photos, but it's important to be intimately familiar with your gear. Owner's manuals are some of the most boring pieces of literature to read. On the other hand, they can be very useful. When I bought my last camera, I forced myself to read through the manual several times even though I was somewhat familiar with the system. I didn't do it all at once, but I read through it several times over the course of a few weeks. It paid off because I picked up some things I wouldn't have figured out until much later. Being intimately familiar with your camera means being able to make adjustments and changes without dropping the camera from your eye. Do you know how to change exposure, shutter speed, or aperture settings without looking at the menu? I realize some of this isn't possible with some cameras, but if you use a DSLR, you should know the shortcuts available on your particular camera. Cameras are tools, nothing more. The more familiar you are with your tools, the better you will be able to use them.


I said you should know your equipment, but not get hung up on equipment. Don't fall into the trap of thinking you need the most expensive camera or the biggest lenses to be a good photographer. That's hogwash. The most expensive camera in the world can't walk outside and take a picture by itself. Like I said, cameras are just tools. Do some cameras have more features and functions than others? Of course. But that doesn't mean the photos are better. Like all tools, they're only as good as the person using them. If a novice starts out with a top of the line Canon or Nikon, his or her photos are not automatically publication worthy just because the camera cost thousands of dollars. It doesn't work that way. The best camera you have is the one you have. Learn it intimately and your photos will reflect that. There's nothing wrong with having expensive gear. Upgrading and adding equipment is fine and a natural progression. Just don't get hung up on seeing what other photographers use and think you have to have the same gear in order to be successful. 

Another trap I think we sometimes fall into is seeing the photographs of other people and wishing ours were like theirs. Don't start comparing your work to the work of others to the point that you get discouraged. It's fine to look at the photos of others to find inspiration or ways to improve yourself, but if you spend too much time looking at other photographer's work instead of taking your own photos, you're doing yourself a disservice. Photography is about you on a personal level. Don't take pictures based on what you think other people are going to like, take them based on what you like. Unless you're being paid by someone for a specific assignment, it shouldn't matter what anyone else thinks.


This brings me to what I think is the most important element in photography and what I mentioned at the beginning - passion. Shoot your passion. Whatever that is. I have a passion for wildlife, nature, and outdoor photography. It's what I enjoy. Some people have a very specific passion. For example, some photographers enjoy shooting only birds, or landscapes, or flowers. That's what they enjoy. Most people already know what their photography passion is. If you don't, take time to figure it out. If you are passionate about something, you will enjoy shooting it and your photos will be much more meaningful to you.


Having passion in your photography is important. That doesn't mean you can't occasionally step outside your passion zone and shoot something different. I've shot some cityscapes, other non-wildlife subjects, and, a long time ago, did weddings. I found out quickly I didn't like shooting weddings. There was too much stress. I learned some things, though, and that made me better at what I really enjoy. Don't be afraid to take on subjects that you may not particularly like. Those exercises can broaden your knowledge and skills.

Cameras and all of the associated gear are just tools. The person using them is the one who makes the photos. It's your vision, your creativity, and your passion that produce great shots. Follow your passion and shoot your passion. I've said before the more photos you take, the better your photos will become. You do have to have a desire to learn and improve. If you don't think your shots are very good, but you don't have the desire to improve, it will be a much longer process. There are lots of "rules" in photography, but a couple I truly believe in are to always have a camera with you and to take photos on a regular basis. I sometimes take pictures for no other reason than to practice. I take them and then delete them. People practice all the time for lots of different things. Photography is no different. Just because you take photos doesn't mean you have to show them to anyone or even keep them. The point is to improve and get better at whatever your photography passion is.


Many of us participate in link-ups or memes and those are great ways to practice skills. And why not give yourself an assignment? If you're having trouble finding something to photograph, challenge yourself. You could document the progression of something like a flower garden. Or photograph all of the historical sites in your area. Try taking pictures off all the moon phases. Visit parks or wooded areas and look for unusual trees. Make a long term goal of getting photos of all the birds common in your area. Experiment with light. Take photos early in the morning one time, mid-day another time, and in the evening to finish it off. Look at how the light changes and affects your photos at the different times. That forces you to pay attention to your camera settings and how you need to adjust them depending on the light. There are countless ways to challenge yourself and it gives you a goal to work toward and the satisfaction of completing it.


Learn your camera intimately. Don't get hung up on gear or the work of other photographers. Practice. And most importantly, shoot your passion. Photography should be enjoyable!




(On a side note, I'm going to be quite busy for the next several days and won't be blogging during that time. Unfortunately, it means I won't be able to visit your blogs. I didn't want anyone to take my lack of comments over the next few days to mean I had stopped visiting their blog. I'll be back to business as usual as soon as I'm free.)

How I Shoot The Moon

After posting some of my moon shots recently, I was asked by several people how I get the photos to turn out the way they do. I'm not a professional by any stretch of the imagination. I basically learned through trial and error. I had a whole lot of bad shots to get to the decent ones I posted. If I had someone to show me, it would have been much easier.

Equipment does play a part in the equation, but the right settings are very important. I realize not everyone has the same type of gear and you may be limited by what you have available. Even so, you may be able to make some adjustments and at least improve the results with what you have.

Typical Shot

A lot of people shoot with their camera in automatic mode. There's nothing wrong with that for many situations. Auto mode doesn't work for moon shots, though. The camera will try to compensate for the dark scene and end up overexposing the moon turning it into a bright blob of light with no detail. All of us have seen photos that look like this one.

That is the moon, but it's grossly overexposed and there's absolutely no detail. It could just as easily be any bright artificial light source. Point-and-shoot cameras and DSLR's set on auto will generally give you this kind of result. The best way to shoot moon photos is in manual mode if your camera is capable of that. This is a situation where you need to tell your camera to step aside and let you make all the decisions.

My Gear And Settings

I use a DSLR and a 500mm lens for moon photos. Not everyone has a large lens like that, but you should use the longest reaching one you have.

I always shoot in manual mode and I also focus manually. Auto focus doesn't do well in a situation like this. It's not like the moon is going to jump up and run away, so you have plenty of time to focus manually and make sure it's dead on. Again, depending on your equipment, you may not have the option to focus manually.

My f stop is normally set from 8 to 11. All DSLR lenses have a "sweet spot" in the f stop ladder where they provide the sharpest result. Generally, that's two to three stops above the lowest number (or largest aperture) of your lens.

My shutter speed varies a bit more, but generally stays in the 160-400 range. If the moon is really bright, I'll use a faster shutter speed like 400 to keep the moon from being overexposed. If the moon is pale or darker, I'll use a slower shutter speed to keep it from being underexposed. This is where experimentation and taking shots at different speeds will show you where you need to be.

A tripod is a big help and it's a good idea to use one if you have it. The majority of my moon photos, however, have been taken handheld. That's because I often get my shots while out driving and I don't have my tripod. I pull off the road and rest my lens on the door frame or get out and lean against my truck for support. If I'm home, I'll use my tripod and a shutter release cable.

Other Considerations

This definitely may not apply to everyone, but if you can do it, it's another way to get the end result you want. I shoot all of my images in RAW format rather than JPEG. You have to have a camera capable of doing that. Most DSLR's will and perhaps some advanced superzooms and newer high end point-and-shoots. RAW format gives you greater ability to tweak your photos during post-processing. You can adjust the white balance and exposure. Your eyes see the moon as white, but sometimes in your photos it may have a colored tint to it. If the exposure wasn't exact during the shot, you can adjust this with RAW images. You don't have as much freedom to do this with JPEG photos. You have to have editing software capable of handling RAW images (like Photoshop or Lightroom). If you own a DSLR, it most likely came with software that will do this if you don't have a third party editing program. Shooting in RAW is not a must-do by any means. It's just another way to help get the desired results.

A second consideration is cropping. Even with a 500mm lens, you aren't going to be able to fill the frame with the moon. It's just too far away. If you want an "in your face" shot that shows the detail on the surface of the moon, cropping is a way to get it.

This shot was taken with my 500mm lens and has not been cropped. There's nothing wrong with this photo and sometimes you may want a shot that gives the feeling of space.

This is the very same photo, but I've cropped it to eliminate some of the space and provide a more detailed look at the moon. This is where focusing becomes very important. Cropping this way only works if your focus is spot on. If the focus is off, cropping will only make it more apparent.

Another tip to keep in mind is the position of the moon in the sky. Full moons low on the horizon often appear very large and brilliant. If you can take your shots while the moon is low, you can get some dramatic results. Your surroundings will play a part in this. Buildings, neighborhoods, trees, and the terrain often block the moon when it's low. I already know the spots I can go to and catch the moon in this position. That's not to say you can't get great shots when the moon is higher. I've taken many photos when the moon is overhead, but it loses that large, looming appearance. And the moon phase also plays into that. Obviously, it doesn't look like that every night.

To summarize, shoot in manual mode, focus manually, and try setting the f stop in the 8 to 11 range with shutter speeds in the 160 to 400 range. I didn't address ISO settings, but I keep mine as low as possible. Keep in mind, pressing the shutter button is free! The great thing about digital is you can take all the shots you want. Experiment with your settings and just keep taking pictures. There's a delete button on your camera for a reason. I'm a firm believer that the more photos you take, the better your photos will become. It requires practice just like anything else.

I don't know if any of this will really be helpful to anyone, but if just one person emails me and says something here was useful and made a difference in their photos, then it was worth it. And, please, if you already get good moon shots, don't screw them up by listening to me.

Blog of the Week: Sole Adventure

It's been a while since I posted a blog of the week. To get that feature rolling again, I want to share a blog called Sole Adventure by Mark in Missouri. Mark and his brother grew up spending weekends with their grandparents in the country which started his passion for the outdoors. 


Mark describes the name and essence of his blog this way: 

A sole adventure is about being outdoors, exploring on foot.  It is about discovering nature and wilderness.  It is about finding new places and experiencing open spaces.  A sole adventure is also about leaving the comforts of my daily life and pushing myself to do something on my own.  Finally, a sole (soul) adventure is where I rediscover who I am, and why I am here. 

He spends his time hunting, fishing, backpacking, camping, and hiking - when he's not spending time with his wife and daughter. Mark writes about a variety of outdoor topics with an emphasis on hunting. His blog includes tips, techniques, gear reviews, and some humor. 


You guys are in for a treat this week because you are sorta getting a two-for-one special. Not only does Mark have his Sole Adventure blog, he also has a photo blog entitled Life By The Lens. It turns out Mark is quite the skilled photographer and he has some really beautiful and amazing shots on his photo blog! For those of you (and I can think of several) who are more into the photography and not so much the hunting, you will enjoy perusing Life By The Lens. 


Take a few minutes and visit both of Mark's blogs. You can access his photo blog directly from his outdoor blog. Mark is a great writer and talented photographer! He can be found on Twitter at @SoleAdventure.

4 Simple Tips For Great Outdoor Photos

How many of you have ever been disappointed with the photos of some exciting outdoor moment? I know I have. Whether it's a buck or other game animal you've tagged out on or a nice fish you just landed, you want some great photos to capture the moment. Too often the pictures we take as outdoorsmen and women end up being mediocre at best. And even if you are personally proficient with a camera, you've probably had someone else take photos of you that didn't turn out as well as you'd like.


I've had an interest in photography my entire life. I am by no means a pro, though. I might be a rank amateur on a good day. The upside to that is I've made many amateur mistakes and have used the lessons to improve my photos. I'm going to share four very simple tips that can make a dramatic difference in your pictures. They aren't secret and they aren't new. They are guaranteed to work.


1. Fill. The. Flippin'. Frame.
If there's one pet peeve I have with photos, this is it. It's disappointing to see a picture of a hunter or angler with their trophy and it looks like the photographer stood twenty feet away. Adding to the problem is the fact that most point and shoot cameras come standard with a wide angle lens. What you end up with is a lot of unnecessary background that takes away from your subject. Get up close and personal and fill the frame! 


Here's an example of not filling the frame with the subject. There's a lot of wasted space and the background is not the least bit interesting which just makes it worse. The subject is too far away to see any detail. When looking at game photos, people want to see nice close-up shots. This is a bad photo all the way around.

Here's a photo where the subject takes up most of the frame. The unnecessary background is eliminated and the subject is close enough to see details.

Filling the frame is very simple. The easiest way is to physically get close to your subject. The other way is to use the zoom. Don't make the mistake, though, of standing far away and then zooming way in. Point and shoot cameras typically rely on digital zoom past a certain point and then you start to lose sharpness. You can zoom a little bit to get the lens out of wide angle mode and then adjust your physical position until the subject is filling the frame. Before you snap the shutter, look in the viewfinder or at the display screen and really SEE how the photo is composed. If there's still unwanted space around your subject, tighten up some more until the frame is filled. And don't be afraid to turn the camera and take vertical photos. That will often fill the frame better. 


Here's another example of a bad shot. The subject is too far away and the photo is so dark you almost can't tell there's a fish in the picture. I'll talk about that in a bit. The background is nice, but that's not supposed to be the focal point of the photo. This picture would have been better if it was just a shot of the dam.

This is a properly filled frame. The subject is front and center getting all of the attention. There's no wasted space or distracting background. And you can see the details.

You say, but Brian, I want some of the nice looking scenery in my photos. There's nothing wrong with that. Just be sure to get the close-up shots as well. Filling the frame will greatly increase the interest factor of your pictures.


2. Your Focus Needs More Focus
This has been the bane of photographs since cameras were first invented. I don't care if you've shot the biggest buck on planet Earth, if the picture is out of focus you've got an unappealing photo. 


With the exception of professionals and avid amateurs, most folks rely strictly on auto-focus cameras. And, for the most part, auto-focus works pretty well, but it's not perfect. Many cameras focus and then lock when you push the shutter button halfway. Pushing it the rest of the way snaps your photo. If you push the shutter button too quickly it can prevent the camera from focusing properly. It's also possible for the camera's sensors to focus on something other than your subject. Take your time and make sure the camera is focused where you want it. Don't press the shutter button too hard because that often results in the camera moving and you getting a blurry shot. Image stabilization is not foolproof.


It's not always possible to tell by looking at a photo on the display screen if it's out of focus. It might look okay on your camera, but when you download it and view it actual size it becomes obvious. The easiest remedy is just to take several photos in case you do get one that isn't properly focused. Some cameras have settings that allow you to blur the background while keeping the subject in sharp focus. That really makes your pictures pop!


3. Flash. Flash. Flash. 
An often overlooked tool is the flash. Unless it's a low light situation, many people don't think to use it. A flash can do wonders for your photos even in broad daylight. Using the flash will eliminate pesky shadows and help brighten details. One common area that is often dark is the subject's face. This is especially true when the person is wearing a hat which is a common thing with outdoorsmen. The flash will banish the shadow caused by the hat brim and make the face stand out. 


This photo was taken without a flash. It's not so dark that you can't see, but the various shadows obscure some of the details and make for an overall darker photo. You can see the hat creates a shadow across the face.

This is the same scene, but taken with the flash. Notice how it brightens the overall photo and brings out more detail. You really notice it when looking at the turkey feathers.

The flash can sometimes create a wash-out effect so you may have to experiment with distance and angle to get the look you want. A dark photo isn't much better than a blurry one so don't forget this handy little tool even in broad daylight. 


4. Change It Up! 
They say variety is the spice of life. It applies to your pictures, too. Break the habit of taking half a dozen photos of the same pose from the same angle and calling it a day. If you mix it up a bit, you'll be amazed at some of the great shots you'll get. 


A common scene is the hunter posing next to his or her animal either sitting or kneeling behind it. The person taking the photos usually stands and snaps all the pictures from that one position. Learn to move. Kneel down and get on the same plane as the subject. Move to one side or the other and take some photos. Get shots of the subject holding the gun or bow and shots without it. Have the subject kneel or sit on both sides of the animal. Move the animal itself. Just use your imagination. Try to get a variety of poses and angles. This greatly reduces the chance of being disappointed because you took all the photos from the same spot and when viewed later at full size they weren't as good as you thought. 


Here's a typical game photo. It was shot straight on. It's a good close-up photo, but if you took all your pictures from this one angle you might be missing out.

Here's the same scene, but with one big difference - the buck's head is turned to offer a different angle. Notice how the tine length is more apparent in this picture than the first. You're getting a slightly different perspective and it works. As a side note, the buck's tongue is hanging out in the first picture as is often the case. For the second photo, it was put back in the mouth and I think that makes for a better shot. Hunters sometimes debate this among themselves and I'm not getting into it here. I pointed it out for the purpose of illustrating how minor changes can make a difference in your photos. Overall, this picture is better than the first, but you wouldn't know unless you changed it up.

The great thing about digital cameras is you can take numerous pictures, see the results instantly, and delete the ones you don't like. There's really no reason not to take lots of photos. One common exception would be in a fishing situation where you are releasing the fish. Obviously, you don't want to spend ten minutes shooting photos while the fish is suffocating. Even in a case like that you can still get great shots - you just have to be quicker. 


I applied these tips primarily to game photos for this post, but they will work in any situation - even at your next family reunion with cheek-squeezing Aunt Bertha and crass Uncle Bart. So to recap....


Fill. The. Flippin'. Frame.
Your Focus Needs More Focus
Flash. Flash. Flash.
Change It Up!

If you will pay attention to these four simple tips, I promise you will see great results. 

Blog of the Week: A "Focus" In The Wild

This blog of the week belongs to Stacey Huston and is called A "Focus" In The Wild. Stacey is an accomplished wildlife photographer, hunter, wife, and mother. In addition, Stacey is a licensed falconer and raptor rehabilitation expert. She lives with her family in Wyoming where there are plenty of subjects for her photography.

Stacey's photos are truly stunning! She has photographed everything from bears and elk to rabbits and birds of prey. Her blog is a joy to look at and her work has been featured on the covers of several magazines. Stacey routinely puts out free desktop calendars featuring her photos.

Check out Stacey's fan page on Facebook where you can find some of her wonderful photographs. You owe it to yourself to visit A "Focus" In The Wild. Stacey has an amazing talent that you really need to see! Her photos are second to none!