Photography is about individuality and photographers often take different routes to end up at the same place. In many aspects of photography, there isn't a right or wrong, but just personal preference. I'm going to share the four aspects of my photos that I take into consideration when determining whether or not to keep and/or use them. You may have similar requirements or yours may be completely different. For the most part, I look at these factors in the order I'm listing them here. Sometimes the order changes, but I naturally look at my photos this way. I didn't sit down one day and come up with these criteria in this order, it's just the way my mind evaluates pictures.
Once the new shots have been downloaded to my computer, my first task is to weed out any junk, garbage, and crapola. If a shot is too far gone in one of these four areas, I almost always delete it. Even if I don't delete it, it's probably never going to be seen by anyone else. So here they are...
Focus
This is the one factor that never changes order. I always consider the focus first. Every time. If the focus is off, nine times out of ten I delete it unless I have a specific reason for saving it. I don't care how good the other aspects of the photo are, I won't be happy if the focus is bad. I don't know how many times I've come home excited about my outing only to discover several shots that were blurry or had soft focus. And the LCD screen on the back of your camera will lie right to your face! Out of focus shots will often look okay on the LCD screen, but you see their true nature when you open them on a computer. The best way to check focus on your camera is to enlarge the photo so you can see detail on the LCD screen.
When I talk about focus, that doesn't necessarily mean everything throughout the entire photo has to be in focus. You as the photographer determine what it is you're focusing on. But if the subject of my photo, no matter how large or small, isn't focused properly, then I don't use the shot. In the past, I have shown photos here and there that I knew weren't in perfect focus, but I've become much stricter on myself. If the focus is sharp, I can sometimes let some of the other three factors slide, but even if the other three criteria are perfect, they won't make up for a blurry shot.
Composition
I'm tough on myself about composition. I could even be borderline OCD about it. When I'm critiquing my photos, composition ranks above exposure. After focus, composition can make or break a shot. I love the rule of thirds! This is probably the "rule" I follow most strictly. Not that it can't or shouldn't be broken. I've done that, too. Photography rules can be broken with great results when done properly. For the most part, though, the rule of thirds will give you a nice composition. Our eyes naturally look for smooth, flowing, pleasing compositions. Have you ever seen a photo that just looked awkward or "off"? Did you think to yourself, if the photo had just been framed this way or the subject was over here a bit more it would look better? I see photos all the time when I'm browsing 500px or Flickr that are outstanding in every way, but the composition is wrong for me. That doesn't mean it's wrong for everyone, but I'll look at a photo like that and it's just not pleasing to my eyes.
If I didn't frame a shot the way I intended or I missed part of my subject because it was moving (birds, animals), I generally won't keep the photo. If the subject is leaving the frame rather than entering the frame, I usually won't keep the shot. If a photo just doesn't look balanced to me, I am probably not going to use it. It's difficult to describe what I'm looking for because each of us may see things a bit differently. You know what looks pleasing to you and what doesn't. Composition can either draw us in to a photo or make us want to move on to the next one.
Exposure
There was a time when exposure would have been my number two criteria, but the digital age has changed that. For me to delete a photo due to exposure, it has to be really off. If it's that bad, it means I really screwed up when taking the shot. My photos aren't always perfectly exposed, but they're usually close enough that I can make the necessary corrections during processing. Since I shoot in RAW, I have to process my photos in order to get a final product so adjusting the exposure isn't a big deal. If I do get a photo that has been exposed incorrectly, it's usually too far underexposed. When you have a badly underexposed photo and you attempt to correct it in processing, it will add digital noise to the shot. Depending on the ISO setting, the additional noise can be very noticeable. Proper exposure is hardest when you have a scene with both really light and really dark areas. If my main subject is just too improperly exposed either way, I'm not going to use the shot.
Background
When I consider the background, I don't mean just the area behind the subject. It could be anywhere in the scene. Part of this goes back to composition, but if I find something in the shot that is distracting, there's a good chance I won't use the photo unless I can crop it out. I've downloaded photos and found litter in a shot that I didn't notice at the time I took it. Sometimes the subject blends in too much with the background or the background is very busy and distracts from the subject. I always try to take these things into account when I'm framing the shot, but sometimes I miss something or it's physically impossible to leave something out. Power lines, light poles, buildings, signs, vehicles, roads, trash, and people are all things that can be annoyances in a scene. If I can't frame something out of the photo, sometimes I'll take the shot, anyway, and then make a determination later whether or not to keep it.
Below is an example of some of the things I'm talking about. There's almost nothing right with this photo. The focus is off. The feet are in focus, but not the head. Exposure on the heron is a bit dark, but I could correct that. The heron is flying out of the frame rather than into it which drives me crazy. And who could miss the tree in the foreground? I was panning along taking several shots as the heron flew by so this wasn't the only photo, but it's a good, albeit obvious, example of what I look for. For me to like this photo, the whole heron would have to be in focus, I should be leading it enough so it's entering the frame, and there would be nothing else in the shot.
So those are the four criteria I use when deciding which photos I keep and which ones get sent to the digital graveyard. Focus is always number one and if that's acceptable, I then look at the others. If you've managed to read this far, keep in mind I'm rather tough on myself. This is how I judge my own photos. Ideally, I try to get photos that have good focus, nice composition, correct exposure, and no distracting background elements. Unfortunately, it doesn't always come together that way. But that's what's nice about the digital format - hit delete and try again. Mistakes are free and when I make them, I delete them and move on.
Since I mentioned 500px and Flickr, I would urge you to take a look at the photos posted on both sites. 500px is my favorite. Check the Animals, Nature, and Landscape categories. Some of the photos are just incredible! Browsing these sites makes me realize just how inadequate my skills are, but they also give me motivation to keep trying.
I was asked recently if I could write a tutorial on how to focus through chain link and other wire type fences. In other words, how do you get the camera to focus on the subject on the other side of a fence rather than the fence itself. The example given was like at a zoo where you want to photograph an animal, but the camera keeps focusing on the fence. Much of this will apply to DSLR's and, as always, it will depend on your camera and its capabilities. Some of the tips will work with point and shoots, but not all of them. Other factors will come into play like your distance from the fence, the subject's distance from the fence, etc.
Manual Focus
The best way to gain control over your camera's focus is to use manual focusing. Many people who own a DSLR have never focused manually. Because cameras are capable of being used in full auto mode, we often don't think to take control away from the camera. Many lenses have a switch on them that allow you to choose auto focus or manual. You may need to refer to your owner's manual to find out how to set this for your equipment. Focusing manually is not as daunting as it may seem. Granted, if you've never done it, there is a bit of a learning curve, but it's not that bad. By focusing manually, you can avoid the fence problem and focus directly on the subject on the other side. This is easier when the subject is still, but can be done on moving animals. At zoos, many animals will pace or wander the same path over and over. If you're having trouble manually focusing on a moving animal, the way around that is to pre-focus on a point where you know the animal will walk and take the shot when it comes into that spot. Manually focusing on motionless animals is easy and is the best way to overcome the tendency for the camera to focus on the fence.
Focus Points
DSLR cameras have a certain number of focus points which are usually indicated by squares on the focus screen when you look through the viewfinder. The number of focus points varies from brand to brand and model to model. As far as I know, all DSLR's allow you to choose either all focus points or a single focus point. How that is achieved also depends on the particular camera. That's where you need to refer to your owner's manual.
If manual focusing is not something you feel you can do, you can set your auto focus point to the single center point and turn off the others. You can then aim the center point through a hole in the fence and onto the subject. Your distance from the fence is important for this. The closer you are, the easier it is to do. If you are too far from the fence, the opening may be too small for this to work. This is a common problem at zoos where there is a fence around the animals and other barriers beyond that to keep people back.
Having all of the focus points activated is good for general photography, but I rarely use my camera that way. The majority of the time, I use just the center point. I have my camera set up so I can change the focus point just by using the thumb pad on the back of the camera. This allows me to change the point even during shooting to adjust as the situation dictates. When all of the focus points are active, the camera will inevitably lock on the fence rather than the animal. Knowing how to set a single point will allow you to work around that.
Manual focus and setting a single focus point are the two options for keeping the camera from locking on a fence. Because it's so closely related to what I'm talking about, I also want to include some tips on how to reduce the presence of fences in photos.
Get Close
This assumes you can get right up next to the fence. By putting your lens against an opening in the fence, it will reduce and sometimes eliminate the fence from the shot. Your lens also plays a part in this. A longer or telephoto lens won't show as much fence as a wide angle lens will. Even with a long lens, there may still be some "shadowing" in the photo. You may find, though, that you can get an acceptable shot just by sticking your camera right up to an opening.
Large Aperture
Using a large aperture (small f number) will create a shallow depth of field and blur out the fence. This works best when there is some distance between the fence and the subject you're shooting. If the animal is close to the fence, the fence will be more prominent, too. The best way to set a specific f stop is to shoot in Aperture Priority (AV) mode or in manual. Leaving your camera on the "green square" or full auto will make this difficult since the camera will choose an aperture based on what it thinks is needed for the correct exposure.
Make The Fence Part Of The Shot
If all else fails, you can try incorporating the fence into your shot. If an animal is up against the fence, you could get a tight shot of an eye looking through an opening. If it's an animal hanging onto the fence, you could again get a tight shot and use that in the photo. This is where creativity and composition come into play. These kinds of fences usually aren't appealing for photographs, but with some imagination, you can compose an interesting shot.
Conclusion
Chain link and other wire fences are difficult to work around and zoos, in particular, are designed for our safety and that of the animals, not so much for photography. Obviously, it would be nice to avoid the fence altogether, but the point of this tutorial is to provide some tips when avoiding fences isn't possible. I am not an expert on the subject and I'm flattered I was asked to discuss it. These are things I've learned and have done myself. Sometimes the end result is what I wanted and sometimes not. Most of this you probably already know, but if there's anything here that helps, then I've accomplished what I wanted to do.
If you have a tip that has worked for you or there's something I haven't covered, feel free to share it in the comments. I certainly don't know everything and learning from others is part of the process of becoming a better photographer.
How many of you have ever been disappointed with the photos of some exciting outdoor moment? I know I have. Whether it's a buck or other game animal you've tagged out on or a nice fish you just landed, you want some great photos to capture the moment. Too often the pictures we take as outdoorsmen and women end up being mediocre at best. And even if you are personally proficient with a camera, you've probably had someone else take photos of you that didn't turn out as well as you'd like.
I've had an interest in photography my entire life. I am by no means a pro, though. I might be a rank amateur on a good day. The upside to that is I've made many amateur mistakes and have used the lessons to improve my photos. I'm going to share four very simple tips that can make a dramatic difference in your pictures. They aren't secret and they aren't new. They are guaranteed to work.
1. Fill. The. Flippin'. Frame.
If there's one pet peeve I have with photos, this is it. It's disappointing to see a picture of a hunter or angler with their trophy and it looks like the photographer stood twenty feet away. Adding to the problem is the fact that most point and shoot cameras come standard with a wide angle lens. What you end up with is a lot of unnecessary background that takes away from your subject. Get up close and personal and fill the frame!
Here's an example of not filling the frame with the subject. There's a lot of wasted space and the background is not the least bit interesting which just makes it worse. The subject is too far away to see any detail. When looking at game photos, people want to see nice close-up shots. This is a bad photo all the way around.
Here's a photo where the subject takes up most of the frame. The unnecessary background is eliminated and the subject is close enough to see details.
Filling the frame is very simple. The easiest way is to physically get close to your subject. The other way is to use the zoom. Don't make the mistake, though, of standing far away and then zooming way in. Point and shoot cameras typically rely on digital zoom past a certain point and then you start to lose sharpness. You can zoom a little bit to get the lens out of wide angle mode and then adjust your physical position until the subject is filling the frame. Before you snap the shutter, look in the viewfinder or at the display screen and really SEE how the photo is composed. If there's still unwanted space around your subject, tighten up some more until the frame is filled. And don't be afraid to turn the camera and take vertical photos. That will often fill the frame better.
Here's another example of a bad shot. The subject is too far away and the photo is so dark you almost can't tell there's a fish in the picture. I'll talk about that in a bit. The background is nice, but that's not supposed to be the focal point of the photo. This picture would have been better if it was just a shot of the dam.
This is a properly filled frame. The subject is front and center getting all of the attention. There's no wasted space or distracting background. And you can see the details.
You say, but Brian, I want some of the nice looking scenery in my photos. There's nothing wrong with that. Just be sure to get the close-up shots as well. Filling the frame will greatly increase the interest factor of your pictures.
2. Your Focus Needs More Focus
This has been the bane of photographs since cameras were first invented. I don't care if you've shot the biggest buck on planet Earth, if the picture is out of focus you've got an unappealing photo.
With the exception of professionals and avid amateurs, most folks rely strictly on auto-focus cameras. And, for the most part, auto-focus works pretty well, but it's not perfect. Many cameras focus and then lock when you push the shutter button halfway. Pushing it the rest of the way snaps your photo. If you push the shutter button too quickly it can prevent the camera from focusing properly. It's also possible for the camera's sensors to focus on something other than your subject. Take your time and make sure the camera is focused where you want it. Don't press the shutter button too hard because that often results in the camera moving and you getting a blurry shot. Image stabilization is not foolproof.
It's not always possible to tell by looking at a photo on the display screen if it's out of focus. It might look okay on your camera, but when you download it and view it actual size it becomes obvious. The easiest remedy is just to take several photos in case you do get one that isn't properly focused. Some cameras have settings that allow you to blur the background while keeping the subject in sharp focus. That really makes your pictures pop!
3. Flash. Flash. Flash.
An often overlooked tool is the flash. Unless it's a low light situation, many people don't think to use it. A flash can do wonders for your photos even in broad daylight. Using the flash will eliminate pesky shadows and help brighten details. One common area that is often dark is the subject's face. This is especially true when the person is wearing a hat which is a common thing with outdoorsmen. The flash will banish the shadow caused by the hat brim and make the face stand out.
This photo was taken without a flash. It's not so dark that you can't see, but the various shadows obscure some of the details and make for an overall darker photo. You can see the hat creates a shadow across the face.
This is the same scene, but taken with the flash. Notice how it brightens the overall photo and brings out more detail. You really notice it when looking at the turkey feathers.
The flash can sometimes create a wash-out effect so you may have to experiment with distance and angle to get the look you want. A dark photo isn't much better than a blurry one so don't forget this handy little tool even in broad daylight.
4. Change It Up!
They say variety is the spice of life. It applies to your pictures, too. Break the habit of taking half a dozen photos of the same pose from the same angle and calling it a day. If you mix it up a bit, you'll be amazed at some of the great shots you'll get.
A common scene is the hunter posing next to his or her animal either sitting or kneeling behind it. The person taking the photos usually stands and snaps all the pictures from that one position. Learn to move. Kneel down and get on the same plane as the subject. Move to one side or the other and take some photos. Get shots of the subject holding the gun or bow and shots without it. Have the subject kneel or sit on both sides of the animal. Move the animal itself. Just use your imagination. Try to get a variety of poses and angles. This greatly reduces the chance of being disappointed because you took all the photos from the same spot and when viewed later at full size they weren't as good as you thought.
Here's a typical game photo. It was shot straight on. It's a good close-up photo, but if you took all your pictures from this one angle you might be missing out.
Here's the same scene, but with one big difference - the buck's head is turned to offer a different angle. Notice how the tine length is more apparent in this picture than the first. You're getting a slightly different perspective and it works. As a side note, the buck's tongue is hanging out in the first picture as is often the case. For the second photo, it was put back in the mouth and I think that makes for a better shot. Hunters sometimes debate this among themselves and I'm not getting into it here. I pointed it out for the purpose of illustrating how minor changes can make a difference in your photos. Overall, this picture is better than the first, but you wouldn't know unless you changed it up.
The great thing about digital cameras is you can take numerous pictures, see the results instantly, and delete the ones you don't like. There's really no reason not to take lots of photos. One common exception would be in a fishing situation where you are releasing the fish. Obviously, you don't want to spend ten minutes shooting photos while the fish is suffocating. Even in a case like that you can still get great shots - you just have to be quicker.
I applied these tips primarily to game photos for this post, but they will work in any situation - even at your next family reunion with cheek-squeezing Aunt Bertha and crass Uncle Bart. So to recap....
Fill. The. Flippin'. Frame.
Your Focus Needs More Focus
Flash. Flash. Flash.
Change It Up!
If you will pay attention to these four simple tips, I promise you will see great results.
